When it comes to beauty, Praguers are privileged in more than one way. To be here, means you will hardly escape it. You can, of course, get on a bike and pedal to the outskirts, to Modřany, Jížní město or Černý most, where the communists’ abstract dreams of perfect housing turned into concrete nightmares. But by the time, you’re there, the endorphines will take the grey away. Within a little while, beauty is back, and it’s all green again. The rest of the trip is the best appatizer one can imagine. And the only one not to add any calories to the meal you’re going to enjoy.
Especially, if you’re going to Na Pekárně, be sure to burn some fat along the way. The little country inn, owned by awarded Czech chef Václav Fryč (http://napekarne.com/sefkuchar.php), is not the place you would opt for when on a diet. On the contrary. They serve large portions there, excelling in roast pork, poultry, venison, home made dumplings and sauces as sweat, the bees could envy them. If you ever wondered, how Czech cuisine became famous within the foodie Austro-Hungarian Empire, this trip will take you closer to the answer. Having said that, keep in mind, it’s a simple countryside pub, just an extremely good one. You will be just as likely to sit next to a table of Czech businessmen with their foreign partners as to local polititians or villagers stopping in for a pint.
Talking about sitting: It’s highly recommandable to make reservations in time, the place is popular. When we went there on a late Thursday afternoon in rainy April, most tables where taken. They have a reservation form on their website and speak English, so it shouldn’t be any problem. Another good thing about Na Pekárně is, they are bike friendly, meaning you can show up in any old sports outfit without getting funny looks, and park your bike safely at the stands in front of the house, a refurbished Central Bohemian cottage from the 19th century.
As to getting there and back, there are various options. My favourite round trip combines cycling and public transport, Prague Metro and train. Instead of climbing the hill up to Prosek, I take my bike on the Metro to Letňany (red line), then cycle to Kbely (Prague Aviation Museum), pass Ctěnice (baroque castle) and follow the small country lanes (ordinary Czech life) among fields and through villages down to Zaryby by the Elbe river. There, turn left and follow the bike path to Kostelec na Labem and pedal aonother 6km southwest to Čelakovičky, where anybody would give you directions to Na Pekárně, the only attraction of this village of 160 (yes) inhabitants. If you’re getting thirsty along the way. stop in any village pub you’ll find. Or wait until you get to Kostelec nad Labem, where they have a public still/sparkling water machine by the bus station. For half a litre of soda water you pay Czk 2 (1 Euro = Czk 27). Bring your own bottle, though. Czech sideways are unbelievable.
If, after your meal, you still feel like cycling, take the same way back to Prague. Or, which I would suggest, take the train back from Neratovice, just some 5k away from Čelakovičky.
Start: Prague Letňany Metro stop (C line) – cycle to Čakovičky, then to Neratovice railway station and take te train back to Prague (appr. 1hr to the main station), ticket appr. Czk 56 per person and bike
total length: 70k, of which 34 cycling
type: easy to moderate, mostly on cycle paths or side roads with little traffic
Czech railway connections: http://jizdnirady.idnes.cz/vlaky/spojeni/
Prague public transport info: http://www.dpp.cz/
Czech online map: http://www.mapy.cz/
Restaurant website: http://www.napekarne.com
Tour oveview (click for details on Mapy.cz)